Saturday, August 23, 2008

Finally Home (The Final Post)

After 29 hours of traveling, Ryan and I finally arrived in Indianapolis, where we had the chance to do Gymnastics for the first time in almost 3 weeks at his gym and recover for a day before we drove back to Ann Arbor. I'm still extremely exhausted- to give you an idea, I slept for 12 hours last night, but I at least feel like my body's on the right time zone.

I don't really know what to say to conclude this thing, only that it's been an incredible journey and to visit China during the Olympics, when the entire world had its eye turned towards Beijing, was truly something unique and unforgettable. We had some incredible hosts in an incredible condo development:


Dined Beijing-style with our Singaporian friends:


Sampled tea at a local market:


Ran into World Champion gymnast Diego Hypolito:


Got ripped off when we thought we made good deals:


Met some creative locals:


Saw the freakin' Olympics:


And, perhaps most importantly, discovered the most popular way of cooling oneself off in the Beijing heat:

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Just some Engrish for today

You probably need to click on it so that you can read the larger version:


I got a little frustrated at the Pearl Market today- I walked away satisfied that I had got a lion statue for 22RMB/ 3$, when I turn the corner and Ryan and Dave say, "Have you bought it yet? Don't, because this other lady is selling a pair of lions for 20RMB total."

Crap. Oh well, I guess I lost at most 1USD, so that's not too bad. Still kind of gets under your skin, though....

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Some random notes- mostly about the Haze

-First of all, we got to see the women's AA final in person, which was definitely the best meet we've seen so far. The energy in the arena was at a peak, and we went down to the lower bowl with a large USA contingent (including Shawn's parents, Mary Lou, etc...) so we were able to roar and cheer as loud as we could for Shawn and Nastia. It was awesome to finally hear the USA national anthem for a change and see our USA girls stand 1 and 2 on the podium. The meet itself was great, none of the big players really missed, and it really came down to the final event. I have a new respect for Nastia and her ability to focus and hit a beam set (and floor set) with that kind of pressure, and to see her during the medal ceremony, you could tell that she was just overwhelmed with emotion at downright earning the title of Olympic Champion.

-last week I wrote about how nice it was that you had to have a ticket to enter the Olympic area, because it reduced the crowds and lines. Well, now that track and field has started, that means another 90,000 people are entering the area each day, so that's completely out the window. McDonald's and the Olympic store have to have crowd control, where the workers physically barricade the entrance from swarms of people until the area inside clears out a bit.

-A few days ago it rained pretty heavily, which must've pulled all of the haze/ dirt out of the air. The difference is unbelievable. Look at these two photos of the Olympic torch, first from a hazy day, then again yesterday after the women's AA final (same distance from the torch, same settings on the camera basically):

The sky was like this the first 9 days:


Now it's like this:


-Since it had finally cleared up, we picked an awesome day yesterday to climb the hill of Jinshang Park. The entrance fee was about thirty cents and we had an awesome view from a very interesting pagoda perched on top of a hill:



-I didn't realize until yesterday that there are mountains around Beijing, because I've never been able to see far enough into the distance to see them:


Thursday, August 14, 2008

Our streak of luck continues....

Ryan and I have so far managed to see the men's team final, the women's team final, and the men's individual all around. Yesterday, we went to the sub station without any tickets for the women's team final, hoping and banking on being able to find some sort of scalper to sell us tickets, however crappy or high up they were. Low and behold, we run into the CEO of Australian gymnastics and she sells us two Category A seats for 90$ each! I think it's because of our Michigan Gymnastics shirts, it's like the equivalent of holding a big sign that says, "I'm a college student who has no money but wants to see Olympic Gymnastics more badly than anything else in the world right now."

We were thrilled, and our luck just kept getting better. This morning I ended up walking beside a british fellow talking about gymnastics. I casually asked, "have any extra tickets?" with a little laugh, since no one usually does.

"Actually," he said, flipping open an envelope and showing me one. "I got one more."

I immediately tried flagging down Ryan in the crowd while we continued walking. "How much?" I asked him tentatively.

"A gift," he said, handing me the ticket, "from British Gymnastics." It turned out I had been talking to Brian Stocks, the chairman of British Gymnastics. He had given me a Category A ticket for free. Ryan and I found another guy for 1000RMB, and so we just split the cost of that one and were set. He also scored 1 Women's All Around ticket from them for tomorrow, so we're just one short for that meet now. It really couldn't have gone any better so far....

The All Around meet was awesome- not so much the battle for gold (Yang Wei beats out everyone by a hefty couple of points) but the silver and bronze were up for grabs, especially with some of the favorites missing their routines. I was glad to see Uchimura win the silver, who does an awesome arabian double pike half out on floor and very dynamic kovacs work on high bar.

Some pictures from the past two meets (mainly for you, Scott):





(added later)- This is me and Brian Stocks, head of British Gymnastics:

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

The Skill of Haggling at the Silk Markets

OK, so I've been to Mexico and the bahamas before, seen the bazaar type areas where vendors tend to all sell the same little trinkets and the sellers offer you "great" deals on items since they "like you so much." Well, I think China takes this whole concept of bargaining to a new extreme....

When I first heard we were going to the "Silk Market" to shop, I envisioned this outdoor bazaar, a hogpodge of vendors setting up camp wherever they could find space selling anything and everything, like something straight out of Arabian Nights. But no. The Silk Street Market is, in actuality a huge, multi-story mega mall of sorts. Sure, there are hundreds of vendors, each with their own section and selling their own items, but they all wear the same uniform so that they are easily identifiable, and they split the floors according to the type of items you want. First floor is silk and cashmere, second is apparel, third is arts & crafts, and so on. It's like being in a legitimate superstore- they even post a kind of "satisfaction guarantee" (although it's vaguely worded- not much of a guarantee). There's stores selling Polo, Louis Vuitton, Playstations, Rolexes, etc.

Oh, except none of it, literally none of it, is real. The Silk Market is like the megaplex of fake brand name apparel and rip off items. Which is fine for a lot of items like clothes and sunglasses and stuff like that, because the quality can actually be pretty good. They even "rate" the ripped off item according to how well the fake is made, and if you really know your stuff, you can ask the vendor what category of rip off it falls into (A, B, C....) But while I would buy a Polo or a watch or a chess set or whatever, I have no idea what people are thinking when I see them buying fake iPhones from these vendors. Seriously, how long are those things gonna last, if they even turn on at all?

Of course, in selling these rip off items the vendors try to sufficiently rip you off. If you look like a dumb foreigner, they will start out at nearly 15-20 times the actual price they would normally sell it for. Dave described going through the Silk Markets as going to war. Walking down the aisles, I felt more like I was swatting flies. Vendors constantly got in your face, followed you, grabbed your arm, anything to buy them just enough time to make eye contact, show you an item, and attempt to convince you that you really need it.

The easiest way to fend off vendors, ironically, was with a subtly convincing "ni hao," or "wo bu xuyao, xiexie" ("I don't need it, thanks"). Whenever I threw out these lines, it seemed to them that I knew Chinese well and thus that I knew how obnoxiously high their asking prices would be. Usually, throwing out the phrases just shut them up (again, kind of like swatting flies).

It also helped having two Asians (Dave and Alyssa) with us. Whenever we would "go in for the kill" or start up a bargain on an item, we could consult with them as to how much something was really worth or how much they would pay. They even haggled for us occasionally in Chinese, which really frustrated the vendors. You could literally almost see their faces slip into annoyance whenever Alyssa would come up next to me, examine the pair of Oakleys I was looking at, and shoot some Chinese at the vendor about how ridiculous the price was and how I shouldn't pay more than 20 RMB for it (3$). Because if you're from Beijing, you know how the system works and what items generally sell for, so the vendors have much tougher of a time ripping you off with local friends around.

Ryan was especially good at bargaining. He bought a fRolex from a lady who initially offered over 2000RMB/ 300$ for one and instantly stated that he would pay no more than 150RMB/20$. She knocked her price in half, then in half again fairly quickly, but whenever she tried to get him to raise his offer he started playing mind games with her, telling her how cheaply made the watch was, lowering his asking price, etc. It was very amusing and satisfying to see him get his watch in the end for 150RMB.



This is a really long post, so I'll condense my final thoughts into some bullet points on bargaining:

1- If you see a calculator anywhere near the seller, it means you can bargain, even if their are prices stuck on the items. Calculator= haggle.

2- Polos should cost no more than 30RMB/ 4.50$.

3- If your asking price gets rejected and they don't offer to come down anymore, then just walk away. Walking away does 1 of 2 things. Either they jump back to you and quickly slash their price, or it at least gives you a better sense of what something is worth. You can then go to another store with the same item, offer a bit higher, and see if they'll come down with the price.

4- Another trick is to say someone offered you the same item at another store for X price. That usually cuts out a lot of the initial crap where they give you "huge discounts," which many even acknowledge how ridiculous their starting price is (I said, "no way!" to an offer once, and she replied with a laugh, "of course 'no way'!")

5- The most important one: know your asking price, and if they won't sell for within 5RMB of that price, don't bother. If something is worth that much to you then don't be coaxed into paying anymore if they try and make you feel guilty or make your asking price seem ridiculous. It's even best to give yourself some breathing room and start a little lower than what you are willing to pay, so that you can come up a little bit and pretend to play their game.

That's all for now. Bargaining is extremely fun, occasionally annoying, and usually exciting....

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Uh, we got to watch the Men's Team Final

It was crazy. Yesterday, we got a sketchy call from this Russian guy who spoke Chinese and English while in a taxi on our way to a shopping district. He said we had contacted him on craigslist (we've tried to contact about 30 people) and only had one ticket, but would sell for 150$. Which, if you've been following ticket prices, is an awesome price. We jumped on the offer, turned the cab driver around, and headed to meet him in the embassy area of China. The transaction went about as smoothly as possible and he was pretty cool.

Still, we only had one ticket to the final, and needed 2 more. We did a bunch of shopping that day and bargaining ("more on that later," to use Balazovich's phrase) but night quickly crept up on us. We couldn't find any more offers online, so decided that our best bet was to head to the Olympic subway stop and look for scalpers.

It seemed hopeless at first, and we got one offer for 300$. Within 20 minutes though of just asking through the crowds and holding up a sign, all of a sudden we had one in our hands for 60$, then another for the same price! So together, the average price of the 3 tickets was under 100$! Considering previous offers of over 350$ per ticket, we were extremely proud of ourselves. Having pieced together 3 tickets, we headed into the venue where we ran into Alyssa and Lai Har, our Singaporian friends.

The meet really couldn't have gone much better. There were enough open seats that we could easily sit together. We saw some awesome gymnastics (Arabian Double pike half out, yurchenko 1/2 on randi, Yibing's rings set, Cassina, etc....) and the USA had a great meet for the most part, pulling out the bronze (our alternates really stepped up and delivered- Sasha especially, last set of the meet, his only competitive event, a history of being a headcase, then delivering like he did was awesome).

We've met a husband and wife who are taking their family to the games (their son is in gymnastics) who have been extremely nice and helpful. We think they are going to be able to get us all around final tickets for the men and the fx/ph/vt final on the 17th! (and not rip us off, since they understand what's it's like to be a college student). Sweeeeet.

Just posting one pic for now (as proof):

Monday, August 11, 2008

The Engrish begins....

I'll let you figure this one out....